Parakeets (Budgerigars)

Hand-raised parakeets selected for friendliness. With patience they can learn to mimic sounds and words.

• Cage: 18"W × 18"D × 24"H minimum — bigger is always better
• Diet: quality seed mix, fresh vegetables, pellets
• Lifespan: 7–15 years with proper care
• Need mental stimulation — toys, varied perches, time outside the cage

General Bird Care

• Fresh water every single day — no exceptions
• Clean cage at least once a week
• Never cook with non-stick pans near birds — the fumes are deadly to them
• Keep out of drafts and away from air vents
• A lonely bird is an unhappy bird — they need social interaction

SPS — Small Polyp Stony Corals

Demanding but spectacular. Acropora, Montipora, Pocillopora. Require pristine, stable water parameters, high flow, and intense lighting. Rick can walk you through exactly what it takes.

LPS — Large Polyp Stony Corals

More forgiving. Brain corals, torch corals, hammer corals, frogspawn. Add massive visual impact to any reef tank.

Softies — Soft Corals

Best starting point for beginners. Mushrooms, zoanthids, leather corals — hardy, colorful, and grow quickly. Great for adding color without demanding perfect parameters.

RO/DI Water In Store

Saltwater mixed with Seachem Salinity at 1.026 SG — $1/gallon. Pure freshwater RO/DI — 50¢/gallon. Bring your own containers or grab one in store.

Tank Size by Age

Most owners keep adults in a 40-gallon breeder with a screen top — this works well in practice.

Diet

• Leafy greens — kale, collards, romaine, dandelion greens
• Crickets dusted with calcium supplement
• Avoid spinach — binds with calcium and causes digestive problems
• Juveniles eat more insects; adults eat more greens

Lighting & Heat

• Requires UVA/UVB AND a basking heat lamp
• Use two separate bulbs OR a Zoo Med PowerSun (provides both)
• Hot basking side: 85°–110°F · Cool side: 75°–85°F · Night minimum: 65°F

Substrate & Enrichment

• Sand, excavator clay, crushed walnut shell, cage carpet, or parakeet seed (loose millet)
• Large rock or wood to bask on under the heat lamp
• A hide so they can feel secure — a stressed beardie won't eat
• Put a background on the tank — they get anxious if too exposed
• Sexually mature between 8–12 months

The Labyrinth Organ

Bettas breathe air directly from the surface — no aeration needed. But they must always have access to the surface. Don't seal the tank completely.

Tank Setup & Water Changes

• 5-gallon minimum — a filter is strongly recommended
• With filter: 10% water change weekly + 50% monthly
• Never clean water, gravel, AND filter at the same time — wait 3–4 days between cleanings to preserve beneficial bacteria

Feeding & Water

• 3 pellets every other day — Rick recommends Hikari Betta Bio-Gold
• Spring water works straight from the jug; tap water needs a dechlorinator (Seachem Betta Basics)
• Can live with other fish — never with another male betta

Housing

• Juveniles: 10-gallon or small vertical enclosure
• Adults: 20-gallon tall or larger — they are arboreal (tree dwellers)
• Add branches, cork bark, plants for climbing and hiding

Diet, Humidity & Handling

• Crested Gecko Diet (CGD) powder — Pangea or Repashy — mixed with water
• Supplement with live insects 2–3x per week; dust with calcium powder
• Humidity 50–80%; mist daily in the evening — they drink droplets from surfaces
• Let them walk hand to hand rather than gripping. They do not regenerate dropped tails.

Tank Setup

• Minimum 20-gallon long; no gravel — swallowing causes impaction. Use fine sand or bare bottom.
• Fully aquatic — no land area. Low-flow filter; dim lighting.

Feeding & Water Quality

• Earthworms are the gold standard; sinking pellets (Hikari Massivore); frozen bloodworms as supplement
• Feed every 2–3 days for adults; remove uneaten food promptly — axolotls are very messy
• Very sensitive to ammonia and nitrites. Weekly 20–30% water changes are essential.

Housing, Feeding & Molting

• Enclosure height = 3× the mantis's body length minimum; mesh sides for climbing and molting
• Can be housed communally — unlike most mantids
• Flies, small crickets, small roaches 2–3x per week; prey should be 1/3 to 1/2 the mantis's length
• Do not handle or feed for 1 full week after molting
• Remove live prey when molt is imminent — they can injure a molting mantis

Care

• 40-gallon minimum; desert setup with sand, rocks, hides
• UVB lighting required; basking up to 115°F; cool end ~85°F
• Diet: primarily plant-based — greens, flowers, dandelion; occasional insects

Care Requirements

• Pristine water quality — zero ammonia, zero nitrite, very low nitrates
• Strong current for filter feeding; supplement with phytoplankton
• SG 1.024–1.026; temperature 72–78°F

Care

• High humidity is critical — poor sheds and respiratory infections follow without it
• Juveniles are defensive; handle regularly to tame them
• Feed pre-killed or frozen-thawed rodents; adults every 10–14 days
• Provide a water dish large enough to soak in

Feeding

Bottom feeders with tiny mouths. Sinking pellets, bloodworms, brine shrimp. Fine sand substrate is ideal. Nearly blind — avoid aggressive tankmates.

Setup & Diet

• Minimum 55 gallons; lots of rockwork — mbuna (rock-dwellers)
• One male to several females; aragonite substrate to buffer pH
• High-quality cichlid pellets and spirulina — avoid high-protein meaty foods which cause Malawi Bloat

Housing & Feeding

• 10-gallon for one; can be housed communally with more space
• Coconut fiber 4–6 inches deep; temperature 75–85°F; humidity 75–90%; secure lid — they climb glass
• Crickets, mealworms, roaches 2–3 per week; shallow water dish always available

Care

• 20-gallon minimum; desert setup with sand and flat rocks; UVB required
• Small crickets, mealworms, waxworms dusted with calcium
• Best as a display animal — they are very fast and do not enjoy frequent handling

Feeding

Surface feeders. Live or frozen insects, crickets, shrimp, small fish. Can be weaned onto pellets. Feed once daily; adults every other day.

Care

• Minimum 55 gallons; will eat anything that fits in its mouth
• Planted tank with hiding spots; secure lid required — they jump
• Feed live or frozen meaty foods: feeder fish, earthworms, shrimp

Housing & Feeding

• Tall vertical enclosure minimum 18"H; tropical setup with live/fake plants; humidity 60–80%; mist daily
• Crickets, roaches, earthworms dusted with calcium every 2–3 days
• Very voracious — don't overfeed or they'll become obese

Requirements

• Large open aquarium with sand substrate — no sharp rocks
• Pristine water quality — very sensitive to ammonia and nitrite; temperature 72–79°F; SG 1.020–1.025
• Nocturnal feeders — tong-feed meaty foods in the evening

Care

• 40-gallon minimum; desert setup; UVB required
• Diet: dark leafy greens, lentils, millet, quinoa — no insects needed (a common mistake that causes health problems)
• Avoid high water-content foods

Housing, Diet & Skin Care

• Large multi-level cage; fleece bedding is best (avoids skin scratches)
• Hammocks, ropes, ladders — rats need enrichment and exercise
• Oxbow Regal Rat as staple; supplement with fresh veg, grains, occasional protein
• Avoid sugary treats, citrus for males, and raw sweet potato
• Check skin regularly; a very light application of coconut oil helps with dryness
• Best kept in same-sex pairs or groups